Into Inverness and Beyond

Glenan Lodge served a very enjoyable breakfast.  The Frosties followed by the poached eggs on toast. If I were to find fault and that it not in my nature, I would say there was too much vinegar in the water for the poached eggs.  Now we are getting picky.    Before breakfast I prepared the bike for the off including repairing the puncture on the front. I have now lost count.  I had  taken the trouble to repair the tubes in my room overnight.    The box room which I would have to say was no bigger than a wardrobe.  I am not so sure I did not get an attack of claustrophobia.  If I had swung the cat it would have hit all four walls.   On departure the hostess asked me why I did not book ahead and had I experienced any problems finding accommodation.   She informed me that most people doing the same as me planned their detaild itinerary well in advance.  I picked up just a little criticism in her tone.   I tried to explain with such a distance it would be difficult to know exactly how far you would get and what problems that might be encountered.  As it happens I remain a day ahead of my well planned January schedule!    I pulled out of the Glenan Lodge with the noise still coming from the bike as I peddled and that made my mind up to find a cycle shop in Inverness.

Weather was set fair with little wind, warm and just enough sunshine. Perfect.  One or two climbs on the fifteen miles to Inverness with the final couple all downhill.   It was not a problem to locate a bike shop with my new Around Me and Find Near Me apps. Halfords once again proved useless in being able to help.  The Highland Bicycle Co could not have been more helpful.   In sorting out a new back tyre the mechanic found the source of the noise.  A broken back axle.   800 plus miles with me riding it had all been too much.  It must have given up the ghost on the run through the pass at about the same time as the double puncture.   No wonder that afternoon ride yesterday had been so slow and difficult. There I was blaming myself.  After a drink at Cake Mamma Cafe the bike was ready to roll again.  Off we went over the Moray Firth bridge and on to the Black Isle.

The bike and rider were humming. Progress was brisk and the miles were going by no problems.  After crossing the Cromarty Firth I stopped for lunch on the coast road near Alness. No sooner had I sat down and a call came through from my manager,John R, asking why I had stopped.  He had been keeping a close eye on the tracker.     No chance of catching a bus then! Being in good time Golspie was achievable for the evening and I managed to book the Granite Villa B&B   The ride continued in ideal conditions along the unspoilt coast road.   Once again the miles were being clocked up.  

Just to keep my hand in I got a rear puncture on the new tyre and tube, ten miles before the day's destination.   A twenty minute delay to sort out the problem.  So disappointing.    I think it must be the nature of the roads. Riding on the side of a busy road with so much debris, glass and other sharp objects.       All fixed and with the road reasonably flat I was in Golspie, a large village on the coast, in time for afternoon tea.  Instructions on how to find the Granite Villas were perfect.

What a contrast, the welcome was so warm and my room eight times bigger. I was afraid I might get lost.   I nipped down to the local shop to purchase certain essential items.  Took the opportunity to have a bag of chips and sit on the beach. A great treat.

Dinner was taken at the local hotel without a problem. A very tasty sausage casserole. Back to B&B by 21.00. Tried to stay awake otherwise I would be up too early.    Total mileage for the day was 64 miles leaving 68 miles to JOG.    The plan is to get to Wick on Wednesday night leaving a short ride in on Thursday to meet the Recovery Team, John and Anne.  I hope they have a smooth journey to the north without too many punctures! 

Carry On Up The Pass.

This was the big day, the one I had been waiting for with trepidation as it would be the stage that takes me through the highlands below the Cairngorm Mountains. Big climbs!   The Atholl Arms Hotel were busy preparing breakfast for their two guests as I packed up the bike for a clean getaway.   At just after 08.00, not before, the doors to the baronial dining hall were unlocked and I was able to take my place.  The experience with the Pork the evening before had made me wary and with the potential for retribution I went for the simple option of cereal and toast.   There seems to be no wow factor here. The staff seem tired and rather miserable. It can't be caused from overwork.   Before departing I visited the local store adjacent to the hotel to buy water and supplies.  Once out of the town settlements and places for a stop are few and far between on the A9.   I met a fellow cyclist as I was preparing to depart who asked me how I was going to get on through the Pass of Drumochter.   This just heightened my fears for the day.   Off I went.  Once again the cycle way next to the road was useful and got me off the main drag which was frightening with some of the lorries very close.    I have to say that today,somehow, man and machine were as one.  In total harmony. Both working at peak performance and I flew both up and down the steady inclines and I have to admit I was very pleased with my performance.  Before long the first thirty miles had been covered.  

There  is nothing like  a little problem to burst that smug feeling of how well I was doing.  With so much time on the cinder tracks and the side of the road a double puncture was the end result.

I had bought two new tubes in Edinburgh.  Handy to sort out punctures four and five.  After forty minutes I was back on the road. All was not well.  I had lost the balance of the bike and there were some strange noises coming from the bike and I was unable to track down the cause.  Despite the problems my time to Aviemore was good and lunch was  taken at Coffee Corner.    Spoke with John A who agreed to locate a B&B at Tomalin.   There were not too many options available and eventually a room was booked at Glenan Lodge Guest House.      The destination was  further 17 miles down the road.   Once again the bike balance was out and this made progress both slow and irritating.  Through Carrbridge with its famous ancient bridge and on towards Tomalin. 

Moral was low as I arrived in Tomalin having got the bike over the Slochd Summit and rolled down to the village in search of the Glenan Lodge.  Not an easy task and to make matters worse the front seemed to have another puncture.    After a couple of calls to the the B&B for instructions I arrived.  To say the room was tiny would not be an exaggeration.  I have had bathrooms bigger on this trip. It was a bed for the night.  I went back outside to attempt to sort out the problems with the bike.  After a few adjustments it seemed to have improved.   I took the two punctured tubes to my room for repair.   Next trip, if there is to be one, I think I should have a crew bus totake care of technical problems. Dinner was at 07.30 and was a delightful repast.   I passed on the Pavlova dessert and retired to my room.  The day had been like a soccer match, a game of two halves.  The second part of the day being the most frustrating of the trip to date.       With the average 63 further miles on the clock progress had been good if a tad frustrating.  Inverness and beyond in the morning.   Total mileage now 829 with 130 to go.  Keep the prayers going and all fingers crossed.  I will need all the help I can get now through to the finish line. 

  

 

Perth, Pitlochry, Blair Atholl

Kirklands Hotel was very quiet at breakfast.  The morning was bright and still.   I recovered the bike from the garage and duly packed it up.  There is is a fair bit of weight in the panniers even though I am travelling as light as possible. It all has to be pushed up the hills.    Managed to get on the road at 08.30 on set off in search of Perth.  Good time made and before long and with a few downhill sections I steamed into Perth.   The A9 road is the main artery through the highlands to Inverness, in fact it goes all the way to the top of the mainland at Thurso.   Over the last few years the UK Network of cycle ways has been established and sign posted.   Whilst a great idea it is pointless having a network which is not only signed for locals with some regional knowledge but the whole route needs to be clear enough to keep visitors on track, so to speak.  

Next to the A9 is a cycle way  which is excellent but at certain junctions it is easy to lose the directed way and one is back on the busy and potentially dangerous A9.   I covered a good number of miles on the track and at one point was cycling by the River Tay and at another through bluebell woods.  

The noise levels on the main road are so loud on the bike and it is with some relief that you travel through such wonderful scenery. Between the two main towns on my route I stopped for my lunch at a craft centre and cafe.   Quite the most miserable people I have met in Scotland. The place was nearly empty and that was no surprise.  However Pitlochry was. A pleasant highland town but on such bright a sunny day it was full of visitors including myself.    If only you could get rid of the tourists.  I stopped for refreshments and for the first time bought some postcards.  I do not seem to have had the time before now.  It was early afternoon and I only had a few more miles to Blair Atholl.    I eventually pushed the bike into this large village, small  town just before 16.00   One or two B&B but I peddled on a little way till I caught sight of the Atholl Arms Hotel just past the entrance to Blair Castle, not the home of Tony!      I had covered 57 miles.  Total mileage to date is 766   Average 63.8 miles.  I feel I will not get back up into the seventies again on this trip.    The end is coming into sight. Many a slip...... 

The Atholl Arms Hotel is a large highland hotel from a different age.  I managed to get a good deal on a room for the night with a bath.  The bath has become an essential facility.    Big hotel but tiny rooms.  There was not enough space to swing that poor old cat!   In fact so cramped you could not walk freely around the bed. I would cope.  It was a place to stay.    Managed a good rest and a snooze.  I booked dinner in the restaurant for 20.00  or as the hotel refer to it, the baronial hall.   When I booked the receptionist warned me I would be the only person dining there.  Not a problem.

As it turned out when I eventually presented myself for dinner the old major had also taken his seat. Basil was rushed off his feet looking after us both.   I was not wearing shoes as the trainers I, my only footwearfor the ride, are starting to smell a little and I did not wish to spoil in anyway the anticipated  ambience of the boranial hall.  Basil enquired " Will you be alright there in your sockies?"   Somehow I picked up that he did not approve.  I enjoyed the slected starter, smoked haddock compot. For the main course I had opted for the pork.    I now wish I had gone  again for the sea bass.  It simply proved impossible to cut the meat with the cutlery provided.  Even if you had managed to cut the meat into a bite size chunk then the effort to chew it would have been too much.  You will be pleased to know that I did not send it back or look for an alternative.    I did not wish to offend the chef but then nor did I wish to be on the receiving end of any revenge. I exchanged a few pleasantries with the major and then retreated to the hotel lobby, also deserted, to make a few calls and pick up the wifi.   The receptionist informed me they had no plans to put wifi in the rooms. Now that is a forward looking policy. I did tell her that I thought they would have to review that decision.    Must look this place up on Trip Advisor.  Back to my room for  bed and much needed sleep.   Being so much further north it is possible to appreciate how late it stays light.  It did not keep me awake.   

Good Service In Edinburgh

The Sea bass at dinner at The Hotel Lauderdale was simply delicious.  I hope it is good for my healthy regime. A comfortable night and some early blog writing.  With breakfast taken and the bike packed it was back to slogging up the A68 towards the capital.   Spitting with rain as I set off worried me slightly but this cleared into a beautiful morning and the ride was pretty smooth with  some encouraging downhill sections. With every downhill comes the uphill. After one long climb there was a great view of the Firth of Forth.  Quite often the journey to the centre of a major city can be very difficult and just before Edinburgh bicycles are forced to leave the main road and join a more circuitous route.  

Following signs for cycle paths in Edinburgh is not good if you are not familiar with layout.  The signs are not obvious enough and it is easy to get lost. The condition of the main roads is appalling with cycle lanes positively dangerous with pot holes and an uneven surface.   Eventually Arthurs's Seat came into view and I rolled into the centre in search of a bike shop.  After eleven days carrying me,lighter as I might be, up through England and a good distance into Scotland the good old bike was in need of a tweak or two and some TLC.  The rider was in need of a tweak or two also but that could come later. I caught sight of Velo Ecosse.  You cannot beat a bit of French!   After a quick examination of the machine it was agreed that new brake blocks and a cable were needed.  In addition I purchased more tubes in case of punctures. I also needed to replace my pump which I had carelessly left on the side of the road two days ago when fixing the last puncture. The helpful owner of the shop suggested I take a coffee or chocolate break in the Black Medicine Coffee Company over the road.

Whilst there I got talking to a fellow cyclist.  When it was time to pick up the bike Jimmy  Noon accompanied me and volunteered to escort me to the Forth Road Bridge, some ten miles away,  using the city cycle paths.  Having settled my account we set off. My only fear would be that I would not be able to keep up with Jimmy, who whilst older than me,was a fit experienced rider. I would never have found my way on my own and I am indebted to Jimmy who not only showed the way but helped me sort out a problem which developed with the gears. Another bike shop would be required.  Jimmy recommended Sammy Wallace's shop on the other side of the the bridge at Inverkeithing. For the crossing I said goodbye  to Jimmy but met another local, David, who rode with me and took the photograph mid way.  David also told me he was going to donate to Big C having seen the Just Giving site which was displayed on the sleeve of my shirt.  David left me at the shop and mentioning Jimmy Noon's name brought immediate service and within ten minutes the gears had been sorted and adjusted and once again I was on my way. What great people I had met, what generous people I had met.  

The escorting service from Jimmy was way beyond the call of duty.  I was certainly looked after in Edinburgh.    Safely and securely on the north bank of the Firth of Forth I took a break before finding the road to Kinross which was my chosen destination for the night.  My legs were getting  tired and it was slow progress.  Kinross had a number of hotels. The first two I tried were fully booked or they did not like the look of a worn out sweaty cyclist in their reception.   I went back to the Kirklands Hotel. They had a large room available with a bath which I could use. In fact it was a suite with two bedrooms and a lounge.  What is more the manager agreed to lock up the bike for the night and feeling very cheeky I asked if he could tumble dry my kit.  All done with a smile.      Once in my suite and settled in with a cup of tea and in consultation with my daughter and personal trainer, Naomi, I took a cold bath for my legs. That was my tweak.    We need to keep them going for the next few days. The cold bath was followed by a hot bath which seemd to revive them.  I hope to feel the benefit in the  morning.  Dinner at the Kirklands was delightful surprise and finished a most interesting and successful day.  Top marks to Scotland. 

Crawling up the Cheviots.

There is nothing worse than trying to get to the top of Cheviots on a bike.    I left the Bay Horse Inn at a little after 08.30 and with the Inn nestling in a valley it was climbing from the word go.  Nice and easy does it on the legs and slowly but surely we climbed up.  The weather was set fair for the day. Light winds, sunny and clear.   I could now see the sheep that I could only hear before now.  Brought to mind the J.S. Bach "Sheep May Safely Graze".  They took no notice of me as I went by and for the first time in three days it was possible to enjoy the wildness and beauty of the scenery. 

The slog went on and I took a break short of 15 miles at the Last Cafe in England  which I found out later that is wasn't     Spoke to the owner who discussed conditions and I remarked how good it was to to see the sun, "Has is been raining?" she enquired.  I thought she was trying to be funny. Three days trussed up in the wet gear.  It was so good to be in just my shirt and leggings.  Talking of leggings, I caught sight of myself in a mirror the other day and I look nothing like a cyclist in his racing gear, just a poor version of Max Wall. I can dream. I do not think my body was built to be wrapped in lycra. After the short rest and an Earl Grey tea I pushed up the Cheviots to the top. It took a short while but it was worth getting to the top and the Scottish border at Carter Bar.  All calm with visibility at over 30 miles.    I was welcomed to Scotland by my own personal piper.    I struck a deal with him that if he played The Black Bear I would buy a copy of his cd.   Before long a coach full of Japanese Tourists arrived on tge scene and it was pandemonium as they struggled to get a picture in front of the Scottish sign.   My friendly piper informed me that this was the best conditions he had witnessed at the border this year. How lucky was that and after the last three days my luck was in.  I took a few pics. 

The next bit of luck to make my day was that the ride down of nearly ten miles to Jedburgh was downhill all the way.       This sort of luck does not last.  Just as I was to descend it was apparent that I had a slow puncture, my third of the trip.  After a pump up I started on my way.  I hoped to get to Jedburgh without a problem however it did need more air before I arrived.   I had planned the previous night to stop for the day at Jedburgh to give my legs a chance to recover a little.  At lunch they felt good and so I pushed on but not before stopping to repair the puncture on the back wheel. I had run out of spare tubes so I would to get the puncture repair kit out.  Whilst I was at it I decided to repair two tubes so I had another spare on board. Cycling to France last year I did not have one puncture in the thirteen days. 

After a successful repair I pushed further up the A68 towards the capital Edinburgh. Through St. Boswells. After speaking with John A who confirmed three hotels at Lauder I decided to call it a day there after 53 miles. Not a record day but do not forget the Cheviots!  My legs were good and I wanted to keep them that way.  I arrived at the Hotel Lauderdale at just after 16.00   I took a stroll around the town before going to my room for a rest before dinner.     Dinner was Sea Bass and very good it was too.  Got back to my room in time for a FaceTime with my brother Michael in Canada.  Good to chat and report on progress.    It had a been the best conditions of the trip so far.  The legs had improved and I was well set for lunch in Edinburgh on Saturday, now less than 30 miles away and I was still over a day ahead of my original schedule. 

The view from the Scottish Border. 

Last Cafe in England

First break of the day in the last Cafe in England. Going abroad in a few miles! Legs good so far. 

Hard Day at the Office

 Just when you think that it can't really get any worse..........  Set off from the Manor and back on the A68. No need to leave the road all day. No turning just straight ahead. The Manor Hotel had been a good spot but a little shabby and creaky with staff in short supply it would appear.  My sleep had been disturbed by a helicopter flying overhead the town at 03.00 for a good half an hour. Perhaps they had heard a cyclist had gone missing?     The weather, despite forecasts, was worse.  Though not raining when I departed I was fully togged up within ten minutes.   The rain got heavier and heavier and progress up the A68 was slow and the road had plenty of challenging hills in it.    In addition my legs were tired despite the rest. It took a while to get them warmed up and moving.  In discussion with my training manager Naomi it could be the build up of lactic acid.   I kept at it and although slowly I made it to Corbridge for lunch with a not un-respectable 30 miles covered.  I cannot tell you about the scenery as the cloud was on the deck and with wind and rain there was little to see.  I could hear the sheep! As I took my lunch  I considered then the possibilities of finding a place to stay and resting up.  I had time and distance in hand.   On the very next section of road I could not afford to be caught out with no accommodation  as there were few settlements in the Northumberland National Park.   After a visit to the Tourist Information I was able to book in at the Bay Horse Inn some 18 miles up the route.  A helpful member of the public gleefully told me how up and down the road was! Thanks.    I pressed on.  The weather improved. When I say improved it stopped raining and I was able to take the waterproof leggings off.    Through the rest of the afternoon this improvement continued and as I arrived at West Woodburn and the Inn the sun shone for the first time in three days. What a shock it gave me. Long may it last. Cyclists seem to always be complaining about something. It will be the heat next. Also encouraged by a couple of bikers giving me the thumbs up for the ride.  I think it was the thumbs up.  Good to arrive and settle in after a warm welcome.  Reassuring to know that people are keeping an eye on me with the tracker.  The hostess informed me that she had received a call from a friend asking whether I was staying there.   Better not put a foot wrong or catch a bus!     With a couple of recovery drinks in the bar I went to rest my weary legs.  I also took a snooze!  Dinner taken and some route planning together with telephone calls on strategy for the coming days.  The story of the hare and the tortoise.  I think I need to take on the role of the latter.